A bouldering training plan, 4 days a week

Week 2: 2 or 3 more problems in each volume block. Week 3: The same volume a grade harder.

1. MondayOn the wall · 45 min

   • Full warm-up (floor and wall)3-5 min of light cardio, shoulder/hip/wrist mobility, then 6-10 very easy boulders.15 min
   • Multiple solutionsFind at least 2 different ways to climb each of 3-4 boulders, then compare.20 min
   • Wrist and forearm stretch2 rounds of 30 s wrist stretches each way per arm, then 20 hand opens.6 min
   • Behind-the-back towel stretch2 rounds per arm of 40 s pulling a towel behind your back, gently.4 min

2. TuesdaySkills on the wall · 45 min

   • Movement quality warm-upBrief mobility, then easy boulders with one rule per lap: quiet feet, straight arms, or hips close.15 min
   • Heel hooksPractice heel hooks on 5-6 easy steep moves, 3 tries per side.20 min
   • Wrist and forearm stretch2 rounds of 30 s wrist stretches each way per arm, then 20 hand opens.6 min
   • Behind-the-back towel stretch2 rounds per arm of 40 s pulling a towel behind your back, gently.4 min
3. WednesdayRest

4. ThursdayOn the wall · 45 min

   • Warm-up on the wallEasy problems, a little harder each time, until you're warm.10 min
   • Up-and-down boulders5 easy boulders, 2 laps each: climb up, then all the way back down.25 min
   • Wrist and forearm stretch2 rounds of 30 s wrist stretches each way per arm, then 20 hand opens.6 min
   • Behind-the-back towel stretch2 rounds per arm of 40 s pulling a towel behind your back, gently.4 min
5. FridayRest

6. SaturdaySkills on the wall · 45 min

   • Wall ramp8-12 boulders from very easy to just below flash, ending in today's main style.15 min
   • Drop kneesFind 5-6 moves on easy steep boulders where a drop knee helps, 3 tries per side.20 min
   • Wrist and forearm stretch2 rounds of 30 s wrist stretches each way per arm, then 20 hand opens.6 min
   • Behind-the-back towel stretch2 rounds per arm of 40 s pulling a towel behind your back, gently.4 min
7. SundayRest

1. MondayOn the wall · 35 min

   • Full warm-up (floor and wall)3-5 min of light cardio, shoulder/hip/wrist mobility, then 6-10 very easy boulders.15 min
   • Multiple solutionsFind at least 2 different ways to climb each of 3-4 boulders, then compare.14 min
   • Wrist and forearm stretch2 rounds of 30 s wrist stretches each way per arm, then 20 hand opens.6 min

2. TuesdaySkills on the wall · 33 min

   • Movement quality warm-upBrief mobility, then easy boulders with one rule per lap: quiet feet, straight arms, or hips close.15 min
   • Heel hooksPractice heel hooks on 5-6 easy steep moves, 3 tries per side.12 min
   • Wrist and forearm stretch2 rounds of 30 s wrist stretches each way per arm, then 20 hand opens.6 min
3. WednesdayRest

4. ThursdayOn the wall · 28 min

   • Warm-up on the wallEasy problems, a little harder each time, until you're warm.10 min
   • Up-and-down boulders5 easy boulders, 2 laps each: climb up, then all the way back down.12 min
   • Wrist and forearm stretch2 rounds of 30 s wrist stretches each way per arm, then 20 hand opens.6 min
5. FridayRest

6. SaturdaySkills on the wall · 33 min

   • Wall ramp8-12 boulders from very easy to just below flash, ending in today's main style.15 min
   • Drop kneesFind 5-6 moves on easy steep boulders where a drop knee helps, 3 tries per side.12 min
   • Wrist and forearm stretch2 rounds of 30 s wrist stretches each way per arm, then 20 hand opens.6 min
7. SundayRest

Week 2: 2 or 3 more problems in each volume block. Week 3: The same volume a grade harder.

1. MondayOn the wall · 60 min

   • Full warm-up (floor and wall)3-5 min of light cardio, shoulder/hip/wrist mobility, then 6-10 very easy boulders.15 min
   • Perfect boulders in the fewest attempts3-4 new boulders: set an attempt limit (max 10) and try to climb each perfectly within it.35 min
   • Wrist and forearm stretch2 rounds of 30 s wrist stretches each way per arm, then 20 hand opens.6 min
   • Behind-the-back towel stretch2 rounds per arm of 40 s pulling a towel behind your back, gently.4 min

2. TuesdaySkills on the wall · 59 min

   • Movement quality warm-upBrief mobility, then easy boulders with one rule per lap: quiet feet, straight arms, or hips close.15 min
   • Heel hooksPractice heel hooks on 5-6 easy steep moves, 3 tries per side.20 min
   • Pull-ups + Push-ups + Hollow body hold18 min
   • Wrist and forearm stretch2 rounds of 30 s wrist stretches each way per arm, then 20 hand opens.6 min
3. WednesdayRest

4. ThursdayOn the wall · 60 min

   • Full warm-up (floor and wall)3-5 min of light cardio, shoulder/hip/wrist mobility, then 6-10 very easy boulders.15 min
   • Density boulderingAs many clean boulders 2-3 grades below your max as you can, 1-2 min rest.35 min
   • Wrist and forearm stretch2 rounds of 30 s wrist stretches each way per arm, then 20 hand opens.6 min
   • Behind-the-back towel stretch2 rounds per arm of 40 s pulling a towel behind your back, gently.4 min
5. FridayRest

6. SaturdaySkills on the wall · 59 min

   • Wall ramp8-12 boulders from very easy to just below flash, ending in today's main style.15 min
   • Drop kneesFind 5-6 moves on easy steep boulders where a drop knee helps, 3 tries per side.20 min
   • Chin-ups + Dips + Dead bug18 min
   • Wrist and forearm stretch2 rounds of 30 s wrist stretches each way per arm, then 20 hand opens.6 min
7. SundayRest

1. MondayOn the wall · 44 min

   • Full warm-up (floor and wall)3-5 min of light cardio, shoulder/hip/wrist mobility, then 6-10 very easy boulders.15 min
   • Perfect boulders in the fewest attempts3-4 new boulders: set an attempt limit (max 10) and try to climb each perfectly within it.23 min
   • Wrist and forearm stretch2 rounds of 30 s wrist stretches each way per arm, then 20 hand opens.6 min

2. TuesdaySkills on the wall · 33 min

   • Movement quality warm-upBrief mobility, then easy boulders with one rule per lap: quiet feet, straight arms, or hips close.15 min
   • Heel hooksPractice heel hooks on 5-6 easy steep moves, 3 tries per side.12 min
   • Wrist and forearm stretch2 rounds of 30 s wrist stretches each way per arm, then 20 hand opens.6 min
3. WednesdayRest

4. ThursdayOn the wall · 39 min

   • Full warm-up (floor and wall)3-5 min of light cardio, shoulder/hip/wrist mobility, then 6-10 very easy boulders.15 min
   • Density boulderingAs many clean boulders 2-3 grades below your max as you can, 1-2 min rest.18 min
   • Wrist and forearm stretch2 rounds of 30 s wrist stretches each way per arm, then 20 hand opens.6 min
5. FridayRest

6. SaturdaySkills on the wall · 33 min

   • Wall ramp8-12 boulders from very easy to just below flash, ending in today's main style.15 min
   • Drop kneesFind 5-6 moves on easy steep boulders where a drop knee helps, 3 tries per side.12 min
   • Wrist and forearm stretch2 rounds of 30 s wrist stretches each way per arm, then 20 hand opens.6 min
7. SundayRest

Week 2: 2 or 3 more problems in each volume block. Week 3: The same volume a grade harder.

1. MondayOn the wall · 90 min

   • Progressive limit boulder ramp2-3 easy, 2-3 moderate, 2-3 hard boulders, then 1-2 powerful attempts just below max.20 min
   • Beta before microbetaOne move that stops you, 8 tries, one change per try: sequence first, then body, details last.19 min
   • Perfect boulders in the fewest attempts3-4 new boulders: set an attempt limit (max 10) and try to climb each perfectly within it.35 min
   • Wrist and forearm stretch2 rounds of 30 s wrist stretches each way per arm, then 20 hand opens.6 min
   • Lat and pec doorway stretch30 s chest and 30 s lat stretch per side in a doorway, 2 rounds.6 min
   • Couch stretch (hip flexors)2 holds of 45 s per side, alternating sides.4 min

2. TuesdaySkills on the wall · 89 min

   • Movement quality warm-upBrief mobility, then easy boulders with one rule per lap: quiet feet, straight arms, or hips close.15 min
   • Heel hooksPractice heel hooks on 5-6 easy steep moves, 3 tries per side.20 min
   • Circuit climbingClimb an easy circuit problem after problem, max 1 min rest between problems.30 min
   • Pull-ups + Push-ups + Hollow body hold18 min
   • Wrist and forearm stretch2 rounds of 30 s wrist stretches each way per arm, then 20 hand opens.6 min
3. WednesdayRest

4. ThursdayOn the wall · 89 min

   • Progressive limit boulder ramp2-3 easy, 2-3 moderate, 2-3 hard boulders, then 1-2 powerful attempts just below max.20 min
   • Beta before microbetaOne move that stops you, 8 tries, one change per try: sequence first, then body, details last.19 min
   • Density boulderingAs many clean boulders 2-3 grades below your max as you can, 1-2 min rest.35 min
   • Wrist and forearm stretch2 rounds of 30 s wrist stretches each way per arm, then 20 hand opens.6 min
   • Cross-body shoulder stretch4 holds of 30 s per side, pulling the arm across your chest with the shoulder blade pinned back.5 min
   • Couch stretch (hip flexors)2 holds of 45 s per side, alternating sides.4 min
5. FridayRest

6. SaturdaySkills on the wall · 89 min

   • Wall ramp8-12 boulders from very easy to just below flash, ending in today's main style.15 min
   • Drop kneesFind 5-6 moves on easy steep boulders where a drop knee helps, 3 tries per side.20 min
   • Circuit climbingClimb an easy circuit problem after problem, max 1 min rest between problems.30 min
   • Chin-ups + Dips + Dead bug18 min
   • Wrist and forearm stretch2 rounds of 30 s wrist stretches each way per arm, then 20 hand opens.6 min
7. SundayRest

1. MondayOn the wall · 49 min

   • Progressive limit boulder ramp2-3 easy, 2-3 moderate, 2-3 hard boulders, then 1-2 powerful attempts just below max.20 min
   • Perfect boulders in the fewest attempts3-4 new boulders: set an attempt limit (max 10) and try to climb each perfectly within it.23 min
   • Wrist and forearm stretch2 rounds of 30 s wrist stretches each way per arm, then 20 hand opens.6 min

2. TuesdaySkills on the wall · 48 min

   • Movement quality warm-upBrief mobility, then easy boulders with one rule per lap: quiet feet, straight arms, or hips close.15 min
   • Heel hooksPractice heel hooks on 5-6 easy steep moves, 3 tries per side.12 min
   • Circuit climbingClimb an easy circuit problem after problem, max 1 min rest between problems.15 min
   • Wrist and forearm stretch2 rounds of 30 s wrist stretches each way per arm, then 20 hand opens.6 min
3. WednesdayRest

4. ThursdayOn the wall · 44 min

   • Progressive limit boulder ramp2-3 easy, 2-3 moderate, 2-3 hard boulders, then 1-2 powerful attempts just below max.20 min
   • Density boulderingAs many clean boulders 2-3 grades below your max as you can, 1-2 min rest.18 min
   • Wrist and forearm stretch2 rounds of 30 s wrist stretches each way per arm, then 20 hand opens.6 min
5. FridayRest

6. SaturdaySkills on the wall · 48 min

   • Wall ramp8-12 boulders from very easy to just below flash, ending in today's main style.15 min
   • Drop kneesFind 5-6 moves on easy steep boulders where a drop knee helps, 3 tries per side.12 min
   • Circuit climbingClimb an easy circuit problem after problem, max 1 min rest between problems.15 min
   • Wrist and forearm stretch2 rounds of 30 s wrist stretches each way per arm, then 20 hand opens.6 min
7. SundayRest