Performance block
A plan to peak for a bouldering trip or comp, 4 days a week
You've got a trip or a comp coming up. Peak for a trip or a comp: focus, reading problems, trying hard.
- 4 sessions a week
- 60 minutes each
- 4 weeks, the last one lighter
The four weeks
Weeks one to three train peaking, mental focus and route reading, on the same days each week. Week four is a deload: the same days with less work, so you start the next block fresh. The plan leaves out the high-risk exercises. If you've bouldered for more than three years and nothing is sore, add the version with them in.
Week 1
MondayOn the wall · 60 min
TuesdaySkills on the wall · 55 min
- Wall ramp15 min
- Read, say, send21 min
- Beta before microbeta19 min
WednesdayRest
ThursdayOn the wall · 59 min
- Easy board ladder warm-up15 min
- Boulder flash round35 min
- Finger maintenance9 min
FridayRest
SaturdaySkills on the wall · 55 min
- Movement quality warm-up15 min
- Overlapping links30 min
- Forearm flush10 min
SundayRest
Week 2
MondayOn the wall · 60 min
TuesdaySkills on the wall · 55 min
- Wall ramp15 min
- Read, say, send21 min
- Beta before microbeta19 min
WednesdayRest
ThursdayOn the wall · 59 min
- Easy board ladder warm-up15 min
- Boulder flash round35 min
- Finger maintenance9 min
FridayRest
SaturdaySkills on the wall · 55 min
- Movement quality warm-up15 min
- Overlapping links30 min
- Forearm flush10 min
SundayRest
Week 3
MondayOn the wall · 60 min
TuesdaySkills on the wall · 55 min
- Wall ramp15 min
- Read, say, send21 min
- Beta before microbeta19 min
WednesdayRest
ThursdayOn the wall · 59 min
- Easy board ladder warm-up15 min
- Boulder flash round35 min
- Finger maintenance9 min
FridayRest
SaturdaySkills on the wall · 55 min
- Movement quality warm-up15 min
- Overlapping links30 min
- Forearm flush10 min
SundayRest
Week 4, lighter
MondayOn the wall · 45 min
- Wall ramp15 min
- Limit movement bite30 min
TuesdaySkills on the wall · 45 min
- Movement quality warm-up15 min
- Quiet climbing20 min
- Forearm flush10 min
WednesdayRest
ThursdayOn the wall · 45 min
FridayRest
SaturdaySkills on the wall · 40 min
- Warm-up on the wall10 min
- Climb with flow20 min
- Forearm flush10 min
SundayRest
Train it with the timer
Add the plan and tick sessions off in the browser planner. It syncs to the iPhone app on the same account.